Several members of the K&I have asked me to compile a brief summary of items I’d recommend for maintenance of their locomotives. I’ve often said that if you’re going to have a locomotive that you want to run it’s essential to maintain it properly. A few minutes of care can help make certain that “model railroading is fun” instead of a pain in the neck.
First of all, there’s really no special trick to maintaining your locomotive. Let’s start with some of the basics.
Right from the box the locomotive should be checked for a number of things. First, remove the shell and set it aside. (Be careful not to disconnect any wires that may be connecting lights on the locomotive body!) This will prevent damage to the handrails and grab irons on the shell. It will also help assure that you don’t inadvertently put lubricants on the shell. For steam, you’re probably dealing with a tender as well. There’s usually no need to remove the tender shell, but do be aware that you’ll want to check the wiring pins for alignment and/or damage.
Let’s start at the top. Are motor wires connected? If not, your locomotive will not run. (You might think this is obvious, but you’d be surprised how many times I’ve seen people stumped because of this basic disconnect!) How about lighting wires? Again, you can save later frustration by checking now. For steam, what’s the condition of the locomotive to tender harness? I personally spent over an hour troubleshooting a brand new Broadway Limited N&W J-class locomotive only to discover as I was packing it away that one of the connector pin receptacles was not making contact. While you’re at it, check the pins in the connector receptacles to assure they aren’t bent or otherwise unusable.
Moving to the gearbox, now would be a good time to apply a SMALL amount of lubricant to the gears. My choice is LaBelle #102, but any plastic compatible lubricant is okay. Some modelers recommend a heavier grease, but I’ve had success with the #102 so I stay with it. Again, I’ll emphasize that you keep the lubricant to a minimum. Wipe off any stray lubricant.
If you don’t own a NMRA Standards Gauge now would be a great time to acquire one. (There are several members of the K&I who’d be more than happy to explain its use to you if you’re uncertain about it.) Our next check is wheel gauge. Can you believe that a perfectly good locomotive sometimes gets knocked about during shipment to the point that wheels are out of gauge? Well, it has happened more than once. While you’re at it, place the frame on a flat surface and make sure the wheels all touch equally. If they don’t, you may have a bent frame or misaligned wheel supports. You usually can’t do much for a bent frame other than return it to the manufacturer, but you can sometimes correct the wheel supports. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this, ask another K&I member for advice.
The rods, linkage, and pistons on a steam locomotive model present a completely different problem. It’s EXTREMELY easy for these to become misaligned, even to the point that the locomotive won’t function at all. (Steam locomotives are manpower intensive! That’s one reason they don’t run today.) A quick check of wheel spacing with the NMRA gauge is a good start, but it’s only a minor portion of your task here. I’ve had locomotives arrive with pistons outside the cylinders, linkage bent, and just about everything else you can imagine wrong. Some of these just can’t be fixed at our level; some can. My basic philosophy is that if I’ve paid for a fully functioning locomotive, I expect to receive a fully functioning locomotive. I don’t like to send things back (I like to tinker with them), but I want them to work properly in the first place. This is especially true when I’ve paid hundreds of dollars for an item! I sent a Broadway Limited back several times because the gear alignment wasn’t working properly and the locomotive jerked when running. Bachmann steam locomotives are notorious for weak locomotive to tender connectors; USE CAUTION! New locomotives have a warranty; I’m not afraid to take advantage of it, although I don’t like not having the locomotive I just purchased.
For both diesel and steam, if you’ve purchased the locomotive used, I’d recommend a good wheel cleaning before you start running it. For me, this means applying Goo Gone to a small paper towel section, placing it on the track, then applying power to spin the wheels on that towel. For steam, don’t forget to move the tender wheels back and forth on the towel, as well. Clean wheels are a must for DCC, and even more important for sound-equipped locomotives. While you’re at it, check to assure that current pick-up wipers are properly located to function properly.
For steam, now would be a good time to apply a light oil to the moving parts of the piston, linkage, and rods. Don’t overdo it, but do assure all moving parts receive attention. I use LaBelle #107 as my oil of choice. Whatever you use, make certain that it’s plastic compatible. Wipe away any residue with a soft cloth or paper towel.
Before re-installing the body shell, check coupler heights with an NMRA coupler height gauge. This will save you a lot of grief later. I’m a fan of Kadee couplers, usually a #5 (#148 for whisker type) or similar (“standard” head) if I intend to run the unit on the club layout. Styrene couplers will weaken over time, and that will provide you an unwanted disconnect. Spend a buck now and save the later frustration.
Now it’s time to re-assemble the body and frame. Do so carefully, again checking for any lubricant residue before you consider the task complete.
I think you’ll find that a few minutes spent in checking and lubricating your new locomotive will result in hours of fun instead of constant frustration.
By the way, don’t forget to check your locomotive frequently, and lubricate it about every six months for steam or once a year for diesels. Once again, don’t over-lubricate your locomotive and wipe away any excess fluids.
Happy Railroading!
Ed Brennan, MMR 499
